NC500 Day 3 – Thurso to Durness

Route: Forsinard, Kinbrace, Syre, Tongue. Talmine Bay, Durness 

Senses and Discoveries

A very seasonable day with rain being strongly swept, horizontally, and feeling the car being shaken not stirred. Clouds hang low obscuring the glorious views we had read about. 

A scenery change as we leave Thurso. We remain amongst heather and bog but as Sarah puts it, the landscape becomes ‘lumpy and bumpy.’

Single track driving, zipping in and out of passing places to give way, whilst dodging animals.

Startled by a large herd of deer. Their shaggy coats wet and clumpy yet majestic in their own right. Their strong stance with heads turned, awaiting our next move.

Fly fishermen casting their lines over the River Naver in hope of enticing a Salmon.

Watching as small trickles of water become raging troughs over the hillside as the weather intensifies throughout the day.

Stops Along the Way

Caithness Horizon’s Museum provides a good source of local history including the life of the Nuclear Reactor and of Robert Dick, a baker come botanist whose collection is on display. We couldn’t resist an art print of a croft house either. (Thurso) 

Due to the weather we opted to head south-west. The local farms indicate an unhappiness towards the RSPB, however no information as to their argument. Great views over the blanket bog without getting our feet stuck in the uneven ground.  The rain so severe I left my phone in the car. (Forsinard Flows) 

Abruptly stopping for the stags to make up their mind of which side of the road to chill on. (On the way to Syre)

See the Stag?

Taking a gentle walk along the coast of the quiet Talmine Bay. On a good day, the drive back towards Tongue would produce some fantastic mountain views, so our sight was drawn to the turquoise waters instead. Sarah longing to jump in but well aware of the chill factor she would encounter. 

Accommodation 

Lazy Bunkhouse £20pp/per night

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